25 January 2022

Homeward Bound

Our flight from the Mara was about 1530 and although the delightful French Father and Daughter were convinced theirs was at 1730 they were on the same flight so Darren asked if we'd mind sharing a truck - as if!

As I've already mentioned, Daughter is quite a large lady and Father walks with a stick so naturally we helped get them in the truck for the short drive to the airstrip.  Both us ladies decided to use the facilities before the flight and then as Dickson wasn't totally in tune with clients' requirements, either because he's new or maybe not used to the high level of service that Kicheche provide, we continued to help with their bags once the plane arrived.

There was one other passenger waiting and he made sure he boarded first and sat down at the front of the plane.  I suggested to Daughter/Father that they got on before us so Ian and I could pass their camera bags up and they could safely stow them at the back.  Unfortunately Daughter took one look at the inside of the plane and said there was no way she could get between the rear seats in order to sit down (the plane they'd arrived on was a 30 seater and obviously considerably wider).  I was amazed as it seemed a huge gap, but clearly not when you weigh 105kg as she then demonstrated so I quietly explained the problem to the crew (pilot and co-pilot) and they actually unscrewed the rear single seat so she could get past and sit down.  The crew were really good and didn't make an issue of it which considering Safarilink's T&Cs suggests anyone weighing over 90kgs books an extra seat and they reserve the right to charge accordingly at check-in I thought was pretty decent.

Once we'd finally got seated, being mid-afternoon the weather was benign and the flight to Wilson uneventful other than Mr Important at the front almost tripping over the loose seat in his desperation to get off first (maybe he had a connection to make).

Having recovered our cushion covers from safe storage we said our goodbyes to Father and Daughter and I did my best to explain gently to Daughter that in all likelihood we wouldn't see them again at Nairobi Airport as a) it was very big, b) we were on different airlines and c) the flights left at rather different times.  

Of course Jackson was there waiting for us with his minibus, which ruined the efforts of a "tout" from another camp - we've not come across that before.  They must be desperate for customers, but he backed off straight away when he saw Jackson and he found out which camp we'd just been to.

Michele had arranged for Jackson to take us somewhere to eat before the flight and he suggested Four Points by Sheraton which is actually on the airport complex.  It was about 3/4 hour drive from Wilson as it was evening rush hour and it was a fascinating journey, I wish I'd kept my camera handy.  On roads where traffic was slow and queuing there were hawkers walking up and down with a huge variety of goods on offer; hats, sunglasses, cleaning products, kites! - you name it, you could buy it.  Jackson said mostly the hawkers were paid by Chinese to sell the stuff.  He tried on a new baseball cap but the price wasn't good enough.

I was amazed when Jackson said he'd be 50 this year as quite frankly he looks older.  He was very poorly with Covid last year but couldn't afford the £3,000 bill if he went to hospital so he relied on traditional medicines and fortunately pulled through as his son is only about 10.

Since 2018 new security is in place at JKIA and everyone, bar the driver, has to leave the vehicle and go through airport type security scanning in a little booth.  Jackson warned us to completely empty our pockets as anything you had in them had to be placed in a tray whilst you went through the scanner and there were always loads of people hurrying to get through.  Just as we were exiting the truck Ian realised he still had the wad of US$ in his pocket and so we handed them to Jackson for safe keeping - knowing absolutely he could be trusted.

Jackson was right, although there was a queue some people thought nothing of pushing and shoving to get through quickly and I'm sure the odd light fingered person could well have helped themselves to something from a tray.

We'd already planned to shower and change in the lounge at JKIA and also eat there but as we had a couple of hours at Four Points we decided to have a light bite and a bottle of wine just to kill time.  We both chose Caesar Salads which were delicious and somehow managed to make the bottle last until we were due to meet with Jackson about 2000 hours.

It was a short drive to the departures terminal which is undergoing refurbishment (of course, like everywhere else we go!) but Jackson was able to drop us fairly near the entrance and we joined the queue of about 40 waiting to get in.  Armed guards checked we had the correct papers, both flight and Covid and then did a temperature check.  Immediately inside the entrance all baggage had to be scanned and each piece of IT (phone, laptop, computer) had to be placed in a separate tray, then liquids, shoes and belts.  In all we used 8 trays but luckily we now have our scanning procedures down to a fine art; one of us goes through ready to meet the trays, whilst the other waits behind until all trays have disappeared.

BA check-in was already open and the Priority lane queue was non existent.  Despite having uploaded all the info to the VeriFLY App in order to check-in, I was amazed (AKA annoyed) that we had to show all our papers again.  Eventually we were given our boarding passes and directions to the Turkish Airways lounge.  Next step was Passport Control which has about 6 different lanes, all with different signs but apart from Crew/Diplomat we couldn't work out what they meant as they were in Swahili.  Some queues had 2 booths and moved quicker and actually it didn't seem to matter which lane you took.  We queued for about 20 mins and then had to provide passports, boarding passes and have photos/fingerprints taken but the staff were very pleasant.  Thinking we were now "through" I immediately put all the paperwork away only to find we needed the boarding passes to get through another barrier about 6 meters ahead.   Then upstairs to another scanner which involved the same palaver and number of trays as before.

As I mentioned the terminal is under refurbishment and as a result the Turkish Airlines Lounge has been replaced by a small, café like area.  There are no showers or changing facilities and not even a loo, you have to go outside and walk 5 mins back to the security area.  We found a couple of seats and persuaded the girl opposite to remove her facemask from the shared table.  To get food or drink you had to flag down a passing waiter but it was so unbearably hot I only had a bottle of water - yes, that hot!  The small portions of food look very nice and smelt good but having eaten at Four Points and anticipating a decent meal on the plane we didn't bother with anything.

Our flight wasn't showing on the departures board but I discovered from my phone that the incoming plane was about 45 mins late so we assumed that would impact our departure time (originally 0010).  However we suddenly caught part of a barely audible announcement saying the flight would be leaving on time, this was a total lie but we were glad we left the lounge immediately as at the gate (right next to the lounge) there was a very long queue.  Everyone seemed to produce pages and pages of stuff and the more they handed over the longer it took as every page was scrutinised.  When it came to our turn I just gave over the passports, boarding passes and showed PLFs on my phone and the VeriFLY App which confirmed our eligibility to fly.  That is the whole point of the App and after some "persuasion" from me the girl accepted it even though she didn't seem to have a clue what it was.

Blow me down, we then had to go through the scanning farce once again but this time although the signs said separate trays for each equipment, they then lumped them altogether.  I asked about priority boarding and we were told to sit in seats by the window but the seating filled up quickly and a lot of people had to stand.  Eventually we boarded and took our seats in Row 7 in the little front cabin and enjoyed a couple of glasses whilst the remainder of the boarding took place.  Despite having eating about 1800 I was looking forward to dinner and was absolutely horrified when the steward offered me the choice of a cheese or beef panini - I actually asked him if it was a joke.  He did big it up a bit by saying it came with a side salad so against my better judgement I agreed to have a cheese one.  When it arrived it was stone cold and I was told that was how it was meant to be served which I totally disputed as the dictionary definition of a panini "is a sandwich made with Italian bread, usually toasted".  

For side salad read garnish!

A little while later the Purser came over and apologised; apparently there had been a problem with the wrapping and this plastic was non-heatable.  She too is fed up with defending BA's poor service and urged me to write and complain (which I did and I received a fulsome apology from BA and 40,000 Avios points which was very acceptable).  Ian and I both declined breakfast, preferring to have a few more minutes sleep if possible and for once Ian slept well but I must get him some sleeping attire for the future as the Purser commented that he was down to his underpants.

We woke an hour or so out of Heathrow and had tea/coffee and a pretty inedible rock hard pastry.  Unfortunately the "priority" tags on our hold bag had no effect whatsoever and we, along with the rest of the cabin, waited nearly an hour for our bags.  I phoned the valet parking company to say we were running late and as they didn't mind how long we were, we decided to go to the BA Arrivals Lounge and have breakfast before we faced the M25.  Although it was quite difficult to find, tucked away upstairs, the food was very nice and freshly cooked to order.

Suitable fortified we retrieved the car and headed for home.

We both agree that this was a WONDERFUL holiday and we enjoyed it far more than the last trip to Kenya, whether this was because we were familiar with two of the camps or because it was only 3 camps/9 nights, we don't know but it was fab-u-lous and I'm really looking forward to sorting the 7,000+ photos for this blog.

Kicheche Bush Camp - Day 4 AM (Another Cheetah Special)

As I mentioned in the last post, Nelson very much wanted to find the cheetahs for us on our last drive and by some miracle (and Ian's keen spotting) he did.   Yesterday morning we'd seen how hungry the mum looked and it was clear that she hadn't eaten anything overnight and the likelihood was that the cubs hadn't either.  She was therefore pretty focussed on getting something to eat for them, but the cubs did what all small children do, and played around.


The chirruping sound you can hear isn't birds, but the cheetahs communicating.

Mostly a collection of pictures, but I'll add a few anecdotes where I can.

As you can see this cub still has some of her "fluffy, baby fur" although it is rapidly growing out.



Mum having a stretch.


The cubs are still too young to actively participate in a hunt/kill but I think Mum is starting to try and teach them some of the basics.




Fortunately litter of any form is very rare in the conservancies - Nelson and Ian both declined to jump down from the truck to recover this piece, I can't imagine why?  Luckily, the cub soon left it alone.



If you're wondering how much the cheetah was bothered by us, here is your answer.


The facial markings, particularly on the cubs, make them look so grumpy!

 



One of the cubs suddenly dashed up a tree.



These photos don't really show how big the tree was, but to give you an idea I was standing on a seat in the truck aiming my camera straight out of the roof.



Getting down wasn't quite as easy.


Nelson was confident that we would have the cheetahs to ourselves for a good while longer as Patrick and Co were still on the other side of the conservancy when he'd reported the sighting over the radio, so he suggested we have breakfast whilst we watched them.  I declined as I didn't want to miss anything or spill my breakfast in the process.


Why oh why, is there always an annoying blade of grass!



One of the cubs was definitely more adventurous and loved climbing.


And to my surprise, it's a female (well I think so!).






Meanwhile Mum is still desperately looking out for a food opportunity.


Not the most elegant way to climb another tree stump (taken on my older camera, hence the colour difference).




Another tree, another dismount.


Slightly more elegant this time.


And ready to hit the ground running.



Unfortunately, I think I got over excited when this photo opportunity presented itself and rather mashed the shutter as it's not totally sharp - what a waste!


This one's a little better, but not quite the same pose.


"Mummy, if you don't get me something to eat very soon, I'm going to have to eat your tail!"


Spending so much time with these fabulous animals has been so special - just look at her!


We'd followed her to a more wooded area and she was clearly in hunting mode.


It's not often that I'm happy with a photo I've taken and I've only done a very quick edit on this, but this is an exception - I love it!


Mum had her eye on some Impala but her main problem was a large herd of cattle who were approaching from the left as they would alert the Impala to her presence.



I would have given anything for her to be looking left, but I still think it's worth including.


By now Patrick with Greg and his clients had arrived and so we moved back a bit (safari etiquette).  Both trucks sat around for quite a long time waiting, hoping, that something would happen but really there were too many cattle nearby.  Also there didn't seem to be any shepherds around (or are they only with sheep?) that Nelson could speak to and explain what was happening so all we could do was wait.  After what seemed like an absolute age, she left the cubs in a bush and made this half-hearted attempt.

Another rubbish video compiled of stills, just to give the flavour of a cheetah at speed.


 Blink and you'd miss it - but that's all I have!


Kicheche Bush Camp - Day 4 AM

All too soon we've reached our last day.  We have a full morning's game drive then back for lunch and a short drive to the airstrip for our 1530 flight back to Nairobi.  Having done 95% of the packing yesterday I had 15 mins to spare so decided to try and check-in for our flight.  This involved uploading our paperwork to the VeriFLY App which decided it didn't want to work and in the end I gave up in frustration.

After yesterday afternoon's less than inspiring drive, we told Nelson we didn't mind what we saw, we just wanted to see something.   A few random images:

Rosy-Throated Longclaw

Two male Impala having a scrap; they were tearing about through the bushes so it was impossible to get a clear shot.  What was really interesting was after a while another one stepped in and Nelson explained he was the peacemaker, almost saying to them "come on guys, there's a better way to sort this disagreement out"

Wattled Plover

Ian and I have debated long and hard as to what this once was and, with no degree of certainty, we've settled on cow purely going by the shape of the horn.

We headed up the escarpment and this lovely zebra was just standing there enjoying the view.


Rufous-Naped Lark singing its little heart out.


I don’t think this Bat Eared Fox realises just how big its ears are!


We came across a small herd of elephant with one very exuberant  youngster.  He (and it was most definitely a he) dashed around, spinning and turning and generally having fun.   






Think he might have stepped in something!



I just love the trunk proffering a bunch of flowers.



At this young age I think the trunk almost has a life of its own, certainly the baby didn't seem to be in control of it.











It was truly special to spend half an hour with this herd; the rest of the elephants were just as lovely as the little one and they tolerated us so graciously but eventually we had to tear ourselves away and leave them in peace.

Fireball Lily (Scadoxas multiflorus) 


For a moment or two I seriously considering posting a Wildebeest Special but when I looked at the photos they were a little repetitive (as are most, I know) - so here are just four of this happy little family.  Not all Wildebeest are migratory and this visit we've seen far more around and although the main calving season isn't until late February we've also seen more young ones than before.





A superb Augur Buzzard


Which of course promptly flew off and for once I almost got it right!


Luckily it was a big, heavy, slow moving bird so I did manage some decent shots, although why the sky changes colour in each I really don't know.


A lone, adult Warthog which helpfully stood still.


Nelson then thought we should try and find the cheetah with 2 cubs and so we headed to the area she'd been seen in yesterday (surely they can move a long way overnight) and as we were driving through some fairly thick vegetation Ian suddenly noticed something over on the left - cheetah - we were so lucky as Nelson was looking intently the other way whilst driving so we could easily missed them.

We were really lucky that we were the only truck around and so had the little beauties to ourselves for ages; the nearest truck was Patrick with Greg and his pupils and they took over an hour to get to us.  Needless to say I took many, many photos so I have done another cheetah special.

A couple of pictures of the massive herd of cattle that wandered along and inadvertently messed around with the mummy cheetah's plans.




The cattle grazing on the conservancy is a little controversial as the farmers are supposed to stick to certain areas but with the long droughts over the last few years, they have started to encroach into the wildlife areas.  And when you see the size of the herds, this one was about 500 head of cattle, and each animal is worth about £200 the "poor" farmer suddenly isn't quite so poor.


Greg and his gang, the ladies were quite pleasant but the chap didn't try to engage with anyone, piled his plate up at lunch each day and promptly left most of it.


Reluctantly we dragged ourselves away from the cheetahs and started our long trek back to camp.  We bumped into this lone giraffe who allowed us to get incredibly close whilst he/she nibbled the tops of the acacia tree.



They really are so comical.


It's hard to imagine a tongue 45-55cm long.


Next we came across scavengers with the remains of a kill and it wasn't too hard to work out what the poor creature was once - zebra.


Marabou Stork and White-Backed Vultures


Lappet-Faced Vultures




"Mmmmm, does anybody mind if I just sneak in and pinch a bit?"


I hope this little video, made from stills, of a lappet faced vulture plays.




As we were heading back down the escarpment Nelson suddenly said he could see lions; just how he spotted them I'll never know as they were right over the other side.  Anyway a bit of fast driving and we crossed the river just in time to see the 4 young males wandering along.

Here are 3 of them




One waited for the 4th to catch up



They just carried on resolutely towards us and then at the last minute walked around the truck.


This one was so close I could have put my hand out and touched him.


I'm hoping Ian's video will still be watchable as I've had to lower the quality in order to meet Blogger's upload limits.


Then literally just outside camp was a small family of elephant - we've never seen them this close to camp before so I like to think they came to say "goodbye".



What an amazing last morning we've had, we couldn't have wished for better sightings and to be on our own with no other trucks around was just the icing on the cake.  Thank you Nelson.



Back to our tent for a final bit of packing and a quick wash before lunch.  Mbuni is Swahili for Ostrich (last time our tent was Kobi = Leopard Tortoise).



The main tent's relaxation area, not that we had much time to enjoy it.  Greg's group seemed to dump their gear all over the place which rather spoilt the look.


Suitably armed with a glass of delicious Rosé, Ian and I sat in the small tent which houses the wifi router etc in the hope that we could complete the necessary uploads to VeriFLY and thereafter check-in.  I got Ian to use his phone and to mirror the steps I was taking and eventually, after watching the spinning "wheel of death" for what seemed like forever, we both successfully checked-in.  Phew, just in time for lunch, which as usual was taken al fresco.



The softly spoken Abraham, always on hand to produce a glass/refill without being asked.


And William, another strong Kicheche team member (who incidentally is a dead ringer for Shane Filan of Westlife !)


The last mention goes to Darren and Emma who after managing the camp for the last 10+ years are leaving at the end of February.  Apparently they were made an offer they couldn't refuse and will be working for a foundation/camp built into the slopes of the southern hills of the Mathews Range in Northern Kenya and, as I understand it, will be much more involved in both conservation and the local communities.  We wish them all the very best.